Most visitors to Riding Mountain National Park arrive from the south, at the main gate by Wasagaming/Clear Lake.
But there’s a lesser-traveled path via Highway 19 that allows a unique view of the park and its attractions.
Join Highway 19 off Highway 5, about four miles north of the village of Kelwood. This brings you to the park’s east entrance, which is sometimes still called by its early name, the Norgate entrance.
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This route into the park clearly shows that the term ‘mountain’ does indeed apply. As you approach, the Manitoba Escarpment rises sharply ahead of you. This view of ‘mountains’ rising above you is also visible if you enter from the north from Dauphin, but to anyone coming to the park from the south the rise is hardly noticeable.
The Norgate entrance, at the base of the escarpment, is a picture-worthy stop. Called the ‘East Gate Complex,’ it is a National Historic Site of Canada. It consists of a portal-style gate made of two log and stone pavilions, each topped by a cupola. Two nearby log buildings, originally built as residences for a warden and gatekeeper, are part of the historic complex.
All three were constructed during the early 1930s when Great Depression relief workers were hired to build a road into the park. (Two similar gates at the north and south park entrances were built during that time but they did not survive.)
Today, this east entrance to RMNP is particularly known for the many scenic and challenging hiking trails it offers. Several begin just a little past the historic gate.
Of these, the Burls and Bittersweet Trail is the easiest and shortest one, good for those with young children. Just over two kilometres long, it sports informative signs, a small swinging bridge and the burls − deformed, bulbous outgrowths found on numerous trees along the trail.
The Gorge Creek Trail also begins nearby, or it can be started farther along Highway 19 at the top of the escarpment. Many hikers opt to begin from the upper entrance. To avoid hiking the escarpment both ways, they park one vehicle at the bottom and a second at the top to start there. Some trail sections are quite steep, with a set of stairs. This is a scenic route, especially in autumn, with views out towards McCreary to the east. It covers about 6.5 kilometres if you walk only one way, with a 300-metre descent or gain through a variety of ecosystems. Watch out for poison ivy along the way.
The most challenging of the east trails is the Bald Hill Trail which can also be accessed near the Norgate entrance. It is often promoted as the most scenic hike in Riding Mountain National Park, and is well worth the hype. It is about 11 km (in and out total), through mixed/boreal forest, with some challenging, steep sections.
A slightly shorter route to Bald Hill is accessed by driving three miles farther north on Hwy. 5 and then three miles west on Road 117 W to the edge of the park. Turn south there and park along the road at the entrance sign. This route is about 10 km total but the first couple of kilometers are relatively flat.
This is the trail I used last fall. It is not for the faint of heart, but – if I’m allowed to brag a little – I completed it at the age of 80, accompanied by a younger hiker whose encouraging comments kept me going. Near the top we also met a family with several young children, the smallest carried on his father’s shoulders.
Bald Hill does live up to its name. It is composed entirely of shale and rises sharply at the end of the trail, but steps have been built to help climbers up the last part. The view of the surrounding hills and the flat plains below is fantastic. My visit was in mid-October, but a late spring or summer visit would also be good. The elevation gain for this route is about 335 metres.
In summer, start early in the day to avoid heat, although much of the trail is shaded. Be sure to carry water with you, and a snack or energy bar. Take bug spray, perhaps bear spray, and check for wood ticks afterwards. On steeper sections, hiking poles are also a help, both up and down. Surprisingly, cell service is available on the top.
If hiking isn’t your thing, a drive to the east side of Riding Mountain is still worthwhile. The winding road up the escarpment brings you to a viewing tower at the top and provides an impressive view of the fields and pastures below. Be sure to stop for photos.
From there, continue on Hwy. 19 to Wasagaming and Clear Lake. As you drive through the boreal and mixed forest, you might catch sight of moose or white-tailed deer or, especially in spring, a black bear with cubs.
Hiking or driving, it’s a beautiful trip, away from the hustle and bustle of the commercial centre of the park.
