For a day trip that takes you back to an earlier time, try a drive to the Criddle-Vane Homestead Provincial Park south of Shilo.
And be sure to make a side trip across the Assiniboine River on the Stockton Ferry, southern Manitoba’s last operating river ferry. Anyone interested in the province’s history would likely find this a worthwhile trip.
The Criddle-Vane Homestead, named Aweme by the family, was established as a provincial heritage park in 2004 to help preserve an intriguing pioneer story — a tale that visitors might like to research before they visit.
This family arrived as pioneers in 1882, brought from England by Percy Criddle. The eccentric Criddle brought two families — his wife, Alice, and his mistress, Elise Vane, both of whom brought their children (four Criddles and five Vanes.) Criddle took up a homestead where they all lived together, with Elise serving as a housekeeper and servant.
Read Also
Prairie Roots and Wings: Manitoba agrologist memoir recalls journey of discovery
Philippe Sabourin’s memoir shares author’s formative farm years in the Red River Valley, as well as lessons rooted in world travel and the food systems found there.
The first years were hard but gradually they developed the site, with the women and children doing most of the farm work since Criddle was more interested in socializing and planning tennis courts and a golf course.
Today, visitors can walk around the site and read the interpretive signs that show where various buildings and facilities once stood. One interesting item relates how Criddle required the young people to cut the grass on the tennis courts by using scissors! Unfortunately, the main house was destroyed by a suspected arson-caused fire in 2014, but a couple of other buildings remain.
The children were educated by Alice Criddle, who had a university education, and several became well known for valuable scientific research. For example, Norman Criddle established the first entomological laboratory in Western Canada, where he collected and mounted insects. He was also known for his accurate floral paintings.
Stuart Criddle studied and published papers about local mammals. Several of the others bred new varieties of flowers and vegetables.
Now, short trails branch from the main area, leading to the foundations of smaller houses built for two sons as they grew up and married. Walk some of these trails and be sure to check out the family cemetery behind the present-day washroom. The graves of Percy, Alice, Elise and several of the next generation are there, as are some newer descendants.
Two books have been written about this unusual family: Criddle de-diddle-ensis, published in 1973 by Alma Criddle, Percy and Alice’s granddaughter; and For Elise published in 2012 by Oriole Veldhuis, great-granddaughter of Percy and Elise. These books present very different viewpoints but both contain details about the early years of this unusual family.
The Criddle-Vane Homestead Park is located about 13 kilometres south of Shilo. The ferry crosses the Assiniboine River about 19 km farther southeast, west and north of Glenboro. However, to visit both in one day, pre-planning is needed because the ferry operates on a limited schedule: Monday to Friday from 7-11 a.m., and again from 3-7 p.m., and closed weekends and holidays. Since visitors to the park usually want an hour or two there, pre-arranging your times will help.
On my trip, I drove in from the south to arrive for a morning ferry crossing, and returned via Shilo to the north. Those coming from the north might prefer an afternoon and then catch the ferry later. Signs indicating the park and ferry are limited, so watch carefully. (A copy of Backroad Mapbook is invaluable for locating remote rural attractions and I certainly recommend it.)
If coming from the south, drive west from Glenboro on Highway 2 to gravel road 88W, then north three km toward Stockton, east one km and north about two km to the Assiniboine. After the ferry crossing, follow the main road west and north about 16 km along the Shilo range until you reach 48 N. Then drive one km east to the Criddle/Vane Park.
If coming from Shilo on Highway 340, turn at 48 N (about two km north of the Assiniboine River bridge) and drive three km east. To access the ferry afterwards, backtrack one km west from the park and take the first road south for about 16 km, driving past the Shilo range.
The ferry, operated by cables across the river, is of historical interest because it was in use back in 1887. The operator told me that, although he does transport some tourists, the main patrons are local farmers crossing with trucks, equipment and hay. Occasionally it might carry up to 30 vehicles in a day, but usually fewer.
The ride across is short, so if you want photos, be ready to start as soon as you drive on. Last fall the river was quite shallow, but this summer ferry operation did not begin until the first week of August due to high water conditions on the Assiniboine. In some years the site is also used as an access spot for river canoeists.
There is no charge for the ferry ride. For updated ferry information, call the municipal office of Glenboro-South Cypress at 204-827-2083.
For more information about the park or family, there are several internet sites such as: https://www.winnipegfreepress.com/local/Inside-the-Criddle-Vane-Saga-270487681.html
For those who use GPS co-ordinates, try:
- Criddle-Vane Park: 49.709468 N. 99.603987W
- Stockton Ferry: 49.58638 N. 99.48451
