We saw combinations of evergreens in containers as well as specialty shrubs such as smoke bush and barberry. Of course exotic tropical trees and shrubs are very popular container plants, such as hibiscus, climbing roses, banana trees, bougainvillea, hydrangeas and oleander. I was interested in hearing how the gardeners wintered these plants.

Banana trees seem so immense and I would have thought impossible to store for the winter. However, one gardener simply chops the tops off the trees, digs the root balls out of the containers (the root ball is actually not that big), and stores them in the basement in cardboard boxes buried in peat moss.

Coniferous evergreen trees and shrubs are relatively easy to overwinter. The plants are simply popped out of their containers and heeled into the ground somewhere in the garden where they will be protected from cold winds and desiccating winter sunshine.

Some gardeners we met went to a lot of effort to overwinter some of the plants. One lady dug trenches and buried her potted hydrangeas and climbing roses. The trench was dug deep enough to accommodate both the container (or the root ball if the plant had been slipped out of its container) and the plant. It was lined with dry leaves and then the tree was placed in the trench, sometimes being covered with dry leaves or a burlap sheet before the trench was filled with soil.º This procedure was used for plants that were rated Zone 5 and above.

One method to overwinter borderline hardy plants successfully is to group them in a sheltered spot, surround them with a wire cage and fill the cage (completely cover the plants) with dry leaves or other mulch. Some sort of covering is necessary to keep the mulch dry so that it does not lose its insulating ability. The more mulch that is packed around the outside of the pot grouping, the better. Some plants, if they naturally go dormant for the winter, can be stored in a garage where the temperatures remain above freezing. Keeping them in the dark will lessen the chance that they will break dormancy too soon in the late winter.

Not everyone has the space — or the desire — to overwinter a tree or standard in the house. For those of us lucky enough to have an all-season sunroom, such plants can be kept alive for the winter and might actually put on a decent display for some of the time. A number of years ago I overwintered a hibiscus standard successfully indoors in front of a south window and it bloomed for most of the winter. I did have to be diligent about insect control as many tropical plants are prone to insect attack when moved indoors, where the air is dry.

When taking plants from the outdoor garden indoors, give them a good spraying with the garden hose and perhaps a preventive spray with insecticidal soap to reduce the threat of insects getting established on the plants.

It’s difficult to see plants succumb to killing frost in the fall if they can be saved and used in the garden again the following year. Try some of these ideas about how you can overwinter your prized plants and maybe you won’t have to buy new ones next spring.

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The twigs, flowers and leaves turn brown and the terminal of each stem often takes on a shepherd’s crook appearance as it curls. If fruit has formed it turns brown and hard and does not mature but stays on the plant. Later in the season fire blight can attack whole stems of plants and in the case of cotoneaster, the leaves become bright yellow or orange and appear to be on fire — another origin of the disease’s common name. It is easily spread by birds, insects, rain, and infected garden tools.

There is no cure for fire blight and limited protective measures that can be taken. The best treatment is to remove all diseased parts as soon as possible, disinfecting the pruning tool after each cut with a bleach or alcohol solution. Regular pruning and removal of infected material will control all but the most severe attacks. Because the disease can be spread by rain, it is prudent to avoid overhead irrigation. Another tactic is to plant resistant varieties of plants or to avoid susceptible species, so some gardeners will not use cotoneaster for that very reason, but showy mountain ash and oak leaf mountain ash appear to be resistant to the disease.

Raspberries are also susceptible to fire blight, that turns the berries and the tips of the branches brown. It is the same pathogen but a different strain than the one that attacks apples, pears, mountain ash and cotoneaster. This strain of fire blight is relatively uncommon, but is becoming more prevalent in the United States, so we might see more of it in the future.

One raspberry variety that is most susceptible to fire blight is “Boyne,” but some cultivars that are quite resistant are “Nova,” “Ruby” and “Avon.” Coloured raspberries, such as the yellow variety “Honey Queen” also show a high level of resistance.

If you have a raspberry patch, next spring keep a close watch on it as it comes into leaf and begins to bloom. At the first sign of tip damage, have the pruners ready to combat fire blight before it gets a head start. Perhaps someday there will be a cure for this troublesome bacterial infection.

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New varieties have not been time tested over the decades, and some prove to be not as hardy. Not so with the tried-and-true old favourites which have been used in both rural and town gardens for years; they have proven their worth and have survived over time to contribute beauty to rural landscapes. One factor driving the demand for “new-and-improved” varieties of shrubs is the ever-decreasing size of urban yards as houses grow larger and lots smaller; there is a huge demand for trees and shrubs that will fit into small spaces.

One old favourite — the honeysuckle — has somewhat resisted efforts to have numerous new cultivars developed although there have been a few new introductions. The honeysuckle, of the genus Lonicera has many positive attributes, such as being completely hardy and able to cope with whatever Mother Nature throws at it, including very cold winters, drought, wet spells, and extreme summer temperatures.

Until fairly recently the honeysuckle variety most commonly used in rural yards was L. tatarica “Arnold Red.” This is a large, attractive shrub, easily reaching a height of over three metres when it matures, with the blue-green foliage characteristic of most honeysuckle varieties, and producing dark-pink flowers and vibrant-red berries. Although many mature specimens of “Arnold Red” still abound, breeders have developed species which have some resistance to the aphid, which is the main pest that attacks honeysuckles. (Insecticides also can be used to control the pests.) Fortunately, most of these newer varieties retain many of the qualities which have made the honeysuckle such a reliable shrub in Prairie gardens.

A tatarian honeysuckle, “Honeyrose,” is one of these newer varieties. This is a tatarian honeysuckle the same as “Arnold Red.” Both have a tall, rather leggy appearance; they are multi-stemmed, finely branched shrubs that are generally bare of foliage on the bottom metre or so. This makes them great accents in the landscape because they are easy to mow under, even with a riding lawn mower commonly used in rural landscapes. When these shrubs are used in a border, however, they should be underplanted with shorter shrubs, or placed at the back of a border that is viewed from one side only. “Honeyrose” produces deep, rosy-red flowers and red berries, and has the same attractive blue-green foliage as “Arnold Red.”

Better choices for foundation plantings, hedging and shrub borders are the bushier, more compact species often referred to as globe honeysuckles, because they tend to keep their global shape without being trimmed. These Lonicera xylosteum varieties have the characteristic blue-green foliage of other honeysuckles but they do not flower prolifically and their fruit is sparse. A very popular variety is “Clavey’s Dwarf” which has been around for years and grows about 1.5 metres tall.

Dwarf forms of globe honeysuckle have been developed to satisfy consumer demand, and two of the newer introductions are “Miniglobe” and “Bush.” These are naturally globe shaped and because they grow less than a metre in height, make great foundation plants or for use in beds and borders with perennials. Not all of the dwarf honeysuckles have the characteristic blue-green foliage; some of them even have rather glossy foliage, and many have yellow rather than red flowers.

There is also a honeysuckle vine. Lonicera brownii “Dropmore Scarlet” is a hardy, graceful vine with attractive foliage and scarlet, trumpet-shaped flowers. It has been on the market for years and looks great on trellises and fences, but these have to be sturdy and substantial because this is a big vine producing an abundance of growth. It is easy to grow, can withstand heat and drought, and its trumpet-shaped flowers attract hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. Aphids can be a problem.

From tall specimen shrubs to well-behaved globe-shaped shrubs, and even a climbing vine, the honeysuckle family has a lot to offer. Even though considered “common” by some people, the honeysuckle continues to be used in many landscapes.

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One of the original varieties is “Diablo,” which is a tall shrub reaching a height of well over three metres. Its dark-burgundy foliage is its main attraction and the leaves are lobed and veined and produced on upright branches, so it doesn’t get as wide as some other shrubs. It is multi-stemmed and multi-branched, and although it prefers full sun (any shrub with coloured foliage will be more vivid when exposed to lots of sun), all ninebarks will perform in part shade. There will be slightly less bloom in such an exposure. Like all shrubs, when newly planted, a ninebark should be kept well watered until it gets established. After that, it is incredibly drought tolerant and will endure long periods without rain.

“Diablo” is the largest of the ninebarks but there are smaller varieties. “Little Devil” has similar coloured foliage to “Diablo,” but only grows about 1-1/2 metres tall. Its flowers tend to have a purple tint whereas those of “Diablo” are white. Ninebark flowers are produced in clusters or umbels and the individual flowers are cup shaped. They appear in June and July and then are replaced by red seed heads which add colour during late summer and fall. The flowers attract bees, butterflies and even birds like these shrubs — but so do deer. Although aphids and mildew can appear, they are not persistent problems.

Besides the burgundy-leafed ninebarks, there are varieties that have gold foliage. “Amber Jubilee” has vibrant multicolours of orange, yellow and gold, while “Dart’s Gold” is a pure gold colour. Both produce white flower umbels. “Amber Jubilee” is the shorter of the two, growing to a height of two metres, whereas “Dart’s Gold” will reach almost three metres. Both have an upright growth habit. Positioning a burgundy-leafed ninebark near one with gold foliage creates a nice contrast.

Because ninebarks are fast growing they require consistent pruning. The best time to prune is in spring before they leaf out, but pruning will also remove some of the flower buds so flowering will be reduced. Ninebarks do not resent pruning and can be clipped throughout the year. If a shrub gets too woody and overgrown it might require rejuvenation pruning where it is cut back to just about ground level; new growth will soon emerge and produce a healthy shrub. Renewal pruning might be done on an annual basis; this involves removing a few of the most mature stems each year right back to ground level. In this way the shrub never gets overly woody or overgrown and always consists of relatively new stems (the standard practice is to remove from one-third to one-quarter of the stems each year).

Because ninebarks are versatile in terms of sun exposure, they can be used in many locations. They are also not fussy about soil type and will grow well in a dry spot or in one that is more constantly moist. All can be used as specimen shrubs, and pruning will give them the desired form and size. The smaller varieties are good to use in xeriscape landscapes, and the taller ninebarks make good loose privacy hedges. They also provide excellent contrast in a shrub border with their red bark colour.

A ninebark shrub can be used to anchor a large flower border, or a formal clipped hedge could also be created. These beautiful shrubs are versatile and perform well with little care — a definite asset to any landscape.

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Another important step in protecting plants from winter damage has also hopefully already taken place, and that is their placement in the garden. Tender plants — the most susceptible to winter damage — should have been planted in sheltered spots, perhaps near a fence or to the south of a row of trees. Also, ensuring that plants are located where they are exposed to favourable conditions such as enough sun, results in healthy, vigorous plants that will come through the winter in much better shape than those under stress because they are exposed to less-than-optimum surroundings.

Newly planted evergreens are at risk of injury; winter winds will increase the rate of transpiration when the plants cannot replace the lost moisture because the root zone is frozen. Strong winter sunshine can also have a desiccating effect on such plants. Erecting a burlap screen on the south and west sides will shade them from the sun, preventing desiccation and sunscald, while a sturdier barrier on the north and west sides will protect the plants from harsh winter winds. All plants benefit from going into the winter with adequate water around their roots because wet soil holds more heat than dry soil. Not only evergreen trees and shrubs, but other trees and shrubs as well as perennials should be watered thoroughly before freeze-up.

Wrapping the lower trunks of vulnerable deciduous trees with burlap offers protection from the sun and will prevent the bark from splitting. Winter sun can be damaging not only because it causes desiccation but also because the freeze-thaw cycle that sunny winter days produce is very damaging to plants. Some people plant very tender plants against the south wall of the house, thinking this is the most sheltered spot in the garden. It might be, but the constant freeze-thaw cycle that is created in such a sheltered spot can do great damage to plants during the winter. Another reason to wrap the trunks of trees and shrubs — but with a more substantial material than burlap — is to offer protection from damage done by rabbits.

The best way to protect plants from winterkill due to low temperatures is to keep the soil temperature constant and to keep it as high as possible by having good snow cover. Erect snow fences and use branches to catch snow so that deep drifts cover plants during the whole winter. This works well if there is significant early snowfall, but often, an outburst of very cold weather occurs before there is significant snow cover. In this case, mulches will serve the same purpose. A thick layer of mulch of an organic material such as dry leaves will provide insulation around plants to moderate the changes in the temperature of the soil. Whether dry leaves, straw, or another material, it must be kept dry to retain its insulating ability. Therefore such mulches are often covered with a plastic or Styrofoam cover. I have had good luck filling large plastic bags (originally held mattresses) with dry leaves and placing these bags on top of Oriental lilies.

Dry soil or peat moss can be mounded up over tender plants such as roses. A Styrofoam cone or some other material might be put on top of such a mulch to both keep it dry and to prevent winter winds from blowing it away. If the soil is mounded, however, it will shed a certain amount of water and this process is only done after threat of rain has past — any precipitation we get afterwards will be in the form of snow. Flax straw works well as mulch because its high oil content enables it to shed water and it remains dry during the winter. Wire cages can be used to hold mulch in place and the cages can be used to hold a covering for the mulch.

Tender plants such as a hydrangea can be cut back and then have a large cardboard box (bottom removed) placed over it. The box is next filled with dry leaves and the top closed and covered with plastic to make it waterproof. Perennial borders benefit from having a thick layer of organic mulch tucked in around the plants before freeze-up. I have a large basswood tree that supplies just such a mulch every year to a nearby flower border.

Never leave plants in containers as frost will enter the soil from all sides and the severe cold will kill them. Heel in evergreens and perennials into the garden that you have had in containers for the summer and put mulch around them. Offer extra protection to plants located in raised beds or planters for the same reason. If you must leave a plant in its pot, bury the pot up to its rim in the ground and then cover the whole thing with a thick layer of mulch. All of this effort at winterizing your garden will be worth it when you see your plants emerge next spring none the worse for wear no matter how severe the winter.

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Then it’s an example of how towns and cities can also help overland flooding and nutrient run-off.

The site at the east side of the Morden Access Event Centre is the city’s first official rain garden, installed this spring in a partnership with the Pembina Valley Conservation District.

A rain garden is a perennial planted area specially designed to harvest or capture and use rainwater that otherwise runs off and can contribute to local flooding. At the end of Morden’s rain garden is a 2,500-gallon (11,365-litre) tank to serve as a gigantic rain barrel.

Over a season of summer rains, city officials have calculated it will collect roughly 27,000 litres of rainwater, to be used by public works to water all the flowers and other trees and shrubbery around Morden.

That’s water that doesn’t need to come from the tap, said Cliff Greenfield, PVCD manager.

“This is captured rainwater they’ll be using, instead of expensive high-quality potable water,” he said.

The other benefits of the rain garden include groundwater recharge, improving water quality and increasing biodiversity and carbon storage. It looks far better than a barren arena wall and parking lot.

They’re one more way we can begin to drought-proof our communities, says Greenfield, adding it’s hoped the project will inspire homeowners and business owners too.

Wider adoption of rain capture and rain garden projects also means urban areas are contributing to water-management solutions rather than to the problem.

No infiltration through concrete

Whether they realize it or not, cities and towns play a role in both run-off and surface water contamination, with their built-up hard-surface areas and general compaction that leave nowhere for rainwater to infiltrate. Instead it’s being sent downstream to overload storm sewers, drainage ditches and streams. That run-off carries its own share of nutrients and sediments, not to mention, oil, gas, and heavy metals.

Adoption of ways to capture and infiltrate water — and use it more wisely — is a way to help prepare for a more sustainable future in drought-prone areas, said Greenfield.

Morden was part of a Pembina Valley-wide initiative three years ago, when the Blue Water of 2012 looked at long-term prospects for water demand and supply in the region.

The three-year study of water use and supply in municipalities in the PVCD concluded that even though residents use significantly less water than the average Manitoban, their frugality alone won’t prevent a regional water shortage by 2040. (Area residents use about 30 per cent less water compared to other Manitobans, or 160 litres of water a day compared to a provincial average of 227 litres and the Canadian average of 339.)

But if the region keeps relying on various lakes and reservoirs, groundwater wells and aquifers and while increasing population, it will run short. And prospects of finding new water sources are remote given the potential for a drier century ahead, the study said.

Morden’s rain garden is one of a series of conservation practices the study recommended, as well as stopping water leakage in homes and industry, introducing efficient appliances and changing public behaviour and practices around water use.

Water conservation also means a longer infrastructure lifespan and lower costs of providing water.

In 2010 the Public Utilities Board mandated municipalities to charge a fee on their utility bills for wear and tear on infrastructure, and earmark the cash in a reserve fund for future repairs.

A practice like a rain garden would have made perfect sense to a previous generation whose use of a cistern to capture water was commonplace, say other PVCD officials.

“Our grandparents understood the value of water and trying to use what resources they had to the utmost and best use. That’s why they had cisterns to capture rainwater,” PVCD chairman and Darlingford-area farmer Murray Seymour said in a news release.

“This rain capture and rain garden project is something we are already doing in rural areas with small- to medium-size dams that hold water back and reduce downstream flooding, and improve water quality downstream as well,” he added.

Morden’s rain garden is not unique, and elsewhere in Manitoba municipalities offer rain garden programs with rebates to those constructing them.

These kinds of demonstration projects are a way conservation districts can work with urbanites to involve them in water management too, Greenfield said.

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Azaleas are actually shrubs that grow in subtropical and temperate locations; they grow and bloom outdoors on the British Columbia coast. During bloom time the plants are literally covered with flowers, which come in a wide variety of shades from dark red to pink to pure white. The flowers completely hide the shiny, dark-green leaves when a plant is in full bloom. While we cannot grow azaleas outdoors year round in our cold climate, we can enjoy the plants indoors during the winter and give them a few weeks outdoors during our short frost-free summer as we work at encouraging them back into bloom.

Keeping a potted azalea after the flowers have faded with the hope of encouraging the plant into bloom is not a terribly difficult process, but it does require diligence in a couple of areas. Firstly, azaleas are cool-weather plants and will not withstand much sun or high temperatures. Secondly, they demand that their planting medium never be allowed to dry out — allow this to happen and the project is doomed to failure.

While the plant is flowering indoors, and after the pot is moved outdoors after danger of frost has passed, it must be in as cool a spot as possible and protected from strong sunlight. An azalea will be happy on an east windowsill where it will get some morning sun; outdoors it will appreciate filtered light that is created by a leafy tree canopy that allows some sunlight to penetrate.

While in bloom indoors, the plant should be watered regularly so that the planting medium stays constantly moist. Add an all-purpose soluble fertilizer to the water once a week; a balanced formula will work fine. Remove spent blooms and watch out for insect pests as azaleas are subject to attacks from both aphids and spider mites. Azaleas like humidity so frequent showers under the garden hose will both deter pests, add humidity, and keep the foliage clean and attractive during the summer.

If the plant is quite large, you might like to trim it back a bit after it has finished blooming. This also would be a good time to repot the plant if the pot seems small for the amount of top growth. Use a pot one size larger than the original pot and make sure the soil mix is at least 3/4 peat moss, as they like an acidic soil, which is supplied by the peat moss.

Before frost threatens in the fall, the plant should be moved indoors to as cool a location as possible, and where the plant will receive bright light — even some morning or late-day sunlight. Make sure insect pests don’t hitch a ride indoors; take suitable precautionary measures so that this does not occur. Soon buds will begin to form and will continue to do so into the early winter. The buds form slowly so it will be late winter before the plant will burst into bloom. With any luck you will enjoy wonderful azalea blooms in your indoor garden next winter without having to purchase a new plant.

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In today’s world many rural gardeners are no longer prepared to spend the countless hours in the summer that are required to keep a clipped lilac hedge looking trim and neat, nor are they inclined to install long rows of lilac in the landscape unless doing so in the perimeter shelterbelt plantings. For this purpose, however, Villosa lilac (Syringa villosa) from Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada’s Prairie Shelterbelt Program is more apt to be used. For town residents – many of whom are former farmers who carry fond memories of the lovely long rows of lilacs on their farms – and other gardeners who have smaller gardens, large plantings of common lilac simply do not fit into today’s scaled-down landscapes.

Our love of lilacs, however, has not abated and luckily there have been new cultivars developed which are better suited to today’s gardens because they are smaller in size and have a more controlled growth habit. Most of them are non-suckering, which was a positive trait when trying to establish a long, wide hedgerow on the farm but can be a nuisance in a smaller landscape. The reduced size of these cultivars, however, is what makes them so adaptable to out present-day landscapes.

Cultivars of the Meyer lilac (Syringa meyeri) are smaller types, although they still can reach up to two metres in height. They are dense shrubs with many fine, twiggy branches and this trait makes them excellent shrubs for shearing and shaping. These lilacs have the distinct advantage of being resistant to mildew which can make lilac foliage unattractive late in the season and is a particular problem with the old common lilac (S. vulgaris).

Meyer lilacs are sometimes referred to as little-leaf lilacs or dwarf Korean lilacs. One very popular cultivar is S. “Miss Kim,” which has larger leaves than other cultivars of Meyer lilac and a more upright growth habit. S. “Tinkerbelle” is also a good hybrid Meyer lilac, although it is marginally hardy in Zone 2.

Two dwarf varieties of lilac whose parentage goes back to the Villosa lilacs are S. “Charisma” and S. “Prairie Petite.” The first grows less than a metre tall and has an almost global appearance. It is non-suckering and has a very compact shape, which makes it very useful in mixed borders, near the front of shrub borders or even in foundation plantings. “Prairie Petite” is a bit larger at 1.25 metres and although compact, has a slightly more open growth habit. It blooms profusely and has upright light-pink flower panicles. “Prairie Petite” also is recommended for its heat and drought tolerance which makes it useful in foundation plantings where the conditions are hot and dry, such as along the south sides of buildings.

Lilacs are sun-loving plants but can tolerate quite a lot of shade, although the amount of bloom will decrease as the amount of shade increases. Generally they are undemanding shrubs and easy to grow. They should be pruned right after they have finished blooming so that next year’s buds are not cut off and have time to develop before freeze-up. There is room for at least one of these smaller lilac varieties in any garden – perhaps even in yours. – Albert Parsons writes from

Minnedosa, Manitoba

———

Lilacsaresun-loving plantsbutcantolerate quitealotofshade.

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This small tree bursts into bloom after all other lilacs have finished blooming, releasing its magnificent sweet aroma throughout the garden. The blooms are ivory coloured, resulting from the individual white florets having protruding yellow anthers, which give the panicles of bloom a fuzzy, ivory-coloured appearance and no doubt explains the name of the most popular cultivar: “Ivory Silk.”

The Japanese tree lilac is a small tree, growing about eight metres tall. It has a rather upright growth habit, so the trunk, which is often multi-stemmed, will be bare. The foliage is not unlike that of the common lilac, the leaves being smooth and oval with sharp points. The tree has attractive red-brown bark which contributes to its value as a specimen tree, particularly in small landscapes where space does not allow the growing of a large tree.

The Japanese tree lilac is a low-maintenance tree that requires little care once established. It is not prone to insect or disease problems, is content with our heavy clay soils and is remarkably drought tolerant. Unlike the lilac shrubs, because it is grown as a tree, it does not need to be clipped or trimmed.

If you love lilac season and mourn its passing every year, you might like to extend that season by including a Japanese tree lilac in your landscape. Even if you are simply looking for a smaller-size tree to fit into a small yard, the Japanese tree lilac might be the one you are looking for. In either case, you will be pleased with the performance of your “Ivory Silk” tree should you choose to plant one.

– Albert Parsons writes from Minnedosa, Manitoba

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Easy to grow and care for, they’re not troubled by pests or diseases and their blooms dry well.

If I had to choose my favourite flowering shrub, hydrangeas would top the list. Their finest features are their attractive, fragrant, long-blooming flowers that come into bloom in midsummer and continue to do so for weeks. Easy to grow and care for, they’re not troubled by pests or diseases and their blooms dry well.

Their flowers don’t have petals, but instead panicles that consist of colourful sepals that are sterile, which the plant uses to attract pollinating insects. The fertile florets, small and inconspicuous, are found in the centre of the cluster. Because the hydrangea’s sepals cannot be pollinated, they don’t go to seed, and therefore, result in longer-lasting displays.

DIVINE CHOICES

The smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens) is a North America native that is hardy to Zone 2b. This species thrives in light shade in humus-rich, slightly acidic soil and requires plenty of moisture. Smooth hydrangeas flower on new wood, therefore, should be cut almost to ground level each spring. Its rounded flower heads first appear apple green in colour, then mature to a bright white. Old blooms turn brown, and should then be pruned off when flowering finishes.

The “Annabelle” variety is one of the showiest flowering plants we can grow on the Prairies. Plants grow to three feet in height and do well in sun or shade. Their white globe-shaped flower heads (12 inches wide) develop at the end of each branch and maintain their bright-white colour for up to six weeks starting in mid-to late summer before fading to a straw colour in the fall.

Big leaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla) is the colourful shrub that many gardeners have a passion for. However, most cultivars are not hardy in much of Canada. They bloom on previous season’s growth, which means the stems die back to the ground. There are two main types of big leaf hydrangeas. The flowers of mophead (also known as hortensias) produce big globes of star-shaped petals, while the lacecap types have flattened flower heads with frilly blossoms in the centre and larger florets around the edges. Both types prefer part shade and moist, woodsy soil enriched with leaf mould and peat moss. For best results, keep shrubs well watered throughout the growing season.

“Endless Summer,” a recent variety, is a reblooming hydrangea that finally brings the beauty of H. macrophylla into more Prairie gardens. Hardy to Zone 4, it blooms on both new and old growth, producing big, showy flower mops eight inches across. Flower colours range from pink to blue but can be altered by changing soil acidity. The lower the pH, the deeper the blue. For blue flowers, apply aluminum sulphate. For pink flowers add garden lime or a high-phosphorus fertilizer. Use any amendment according to package directions. Removing the spent flowers will ensure blooms right up until frost. For winter protection, a 10-centimetre-thick layer of winter mulch is recommended.

HYDRANGEAS IN THE LANDSCAPE

Hydrangeas can be planted around house foundations or in flower beds. They are also stunning specimens in the lawn, and make a colourful boundary border mixing well with many other shrubs. Smaller cultivars are even suited to large pots.

GROWING HYDRANGEAS

Plant hydrangeas in spring at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery pot. Keep the soil moist the first growing season and water during dry spells after that. Add a three-inch layer of organic mulch to retain soil moisture. Shape the plant and remove weak or damaged branches after flowering by cutting stems back to a strong set of leaves. Prune old woody stems to the ground every two to three years in late fall.

– Patricia Futros writes from Dugald, Manitoba

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