I’ve had some good horses, and some not so good, and I have learned something from all of them. From my first pony that I crawled up onto more than 40 years ago to the horses I have today, all of them have contributed to my education. And it ain’t over yet.

Horses have taught me to be patient, even when I didn’t think I could be. They’ve taught me to be respectful and to demand respect in return. They continually remind me to be mindful of each individual’s character, and to remember that each one has its own unique personality.

My horses have taught me to expect the unexpected and to be ready for anything. Always keep a little weight in your stirrups, if ya know what I mean.

With my horses’ help, I’ve learned to have confidence in my own abilities, I’ve learned to trust, and to be understanding and sometimes forgiving.

Horses have shown me that if there’s a hole in the fence, they’ll find it; if there’s a gate left unlatched, they’ll get through it. They’ve taught me never to take things for granted.

Horses have taught me to open my mind, see new things, try new ways. And when I get to thinkin’ I know just about all there is to know, I spend some time with them, watch and listen, and they teach me something new every time.

I’ve learned that a couple of hours on the back of a good horse is the best therapy I know of. And I’ve learned that a slow loop and a gentle hand is a pretty good way to get the job done, whether it’s dealing with horses or life in general.

Finally, if you happen to hit the dirt, as happens every so often in life, there’s only one thing to do: dust yourself off, get back on, and keep riding.

So thanks for ridin’ along, and remember to stay in the saddle, and never say whoa in a bad spot!

The post Let’s Go Ridin’ – for Jul. 23, 2009 appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

Bandaging your horse’s legs can serve a variety of functions, such as treating a wound or for use as protection during travel. Proper bandaging can also provide support for tendons and ligaments during strenuous exercise, and can reduce or even prevent swelling after an injury or a workout.

Wrapping the leg correctly takes practice, and in the case of bandaging a wound, it must be applied properly. Otherwise it may hinder the healing process. Medically indicated bandages are made up of three layers, and the first of these, the contact layer, should not stick to the horse’s skin when applied. The bandage should keep good contact and be non-irritating. Plain gauze squares should not be used as the first bandage because they stick to the wound area. Special non-stick sterile pads are available for this purpose.

The second layer of bandaging acts as padding and is helpful in protecting the soft tissue before the final outer layer goes on. This cotton padding should be a minimum of one inch thick, and the longer the bandage is to stay on, the greater the thickness of padding needed.

The third bandage protects the inner layers from environmental contamination. This layer should be a minimum of two inches wide and is typically made of self-adhering material such as Vetwrap.

When wrapping the leg you need to have the correct amount of tension, which you learn from experience. Too little tension and the bandage will be loose and will slip off. Too tight and it will slow the blood flow and cause poor circulation.

Be sure you have thoroughly cleaned and dried the wound area before you start. Keeping the bandage snug, apply it with smooth, even pressure without wrinkling it. Start by wrapping it around the front of the leg and then around the back in a spiral fashion, inside to outside. The outer wrap should go down, leaving one half to one inch of secondary bandage showing. Work back up the leg, overlapping the preceding layer by about 50 per cent.

If you are wrapping your horse’s legs for travel, you can use stable bandages wrapped tightly around thick quilts or similar padding to provide support and impact protection. They are generally used in combination with bell boots for trailering.

If you are unsure of when or how to bandage a wound, you should consult your veterinarian or have him examine it and treat it accordingly. But the bandaging tips we have discussed should allow you to provide initial first aid while you wait for the vet.

Till next time stay in the saddle and never say whoa in a bad spot!

The post Let’s Go Ridin’ – for Jun. 11, 2009 appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

If you’ve done it, you know what I’m talking about. If you haven’t, I thought I would give you some tips on where to start and what is required to export a horse from Canada to the U. S.

First off, you should know that if the value of the horse is more than $2,000, you are required to use a broker to export it. Anything under that amount, you can export it yourself. Or if you choose to use a commercial carrier, they will have a broker and will handle most of the paperwork for you.

Regardless, you will need a current negative Coggins test on the horse, and an export certificate signed by a federal vet. The Coggins is valid for 60 days, while the export certificate is only valid for 30 days so keep that in mind when deciding on the export date. You should also have all vaccinations done well in advance, as you cannot vaccinate a horse within two weeks of the export date.

If you are taking the horse across the border, you need to fill out a U. S. Customs and Border Protection Form 7523, which is a “Merchandise Free of Duty” form and carrier’s certificate and release. You can get help filling out this form by calling a toll-free number in Washington, and you can find this number on the Customs and Border Protection website, under Border Services. You can also download this form from the website.

You will need a copy of the bill of sale, stating the value of the horse and a description, including age, gender and purpose of the horse, i. e. pleasure, breeding, etc. If the horse is registered, a copy of the registration papers is helpful. The name and social security number of the buyer is required as well.

That pretty much takes care of the paperwork for the horse. Beyond that, you will need something called an “SCAC code” if you are transporting the horse yourself. It is a Standard Carrier Alpha Code issued by the National Motor Freight Traffic Association Inc., info available at www.nmfta.org.You will need to apply for this ahead of time at a cost of US$55 and it is valid for one year.

You also require an E-Manifest filed ahead of time, either through a broker for a fee, or you can do it yourself online at www.cbp.gov.The manifest must show among other things, all passengers on board when you cross. If not, you will not get across. Also, if the manifest shows a passenger and he is not on board, (perhaps he changed his mind at the last minute), that could also cause problems.

There are a lot of costs associated with exporting a horse – the Coggins test, a fee for the federal vet to sign the export paper, the SCAC code as mentioned to name a few. When you arrive at the border crossing, there is a charge of US$10.75, not sure if this is per horse or per vehicle. Then the horse will need to have a vet inspection, US$29. Keep in mind that you must cross at a port where vet services are available, and you must give the vet office 24 hours’ notice of when you will cross.

You should allow a minimum of one hour to get through the border crossing, as you will have to fill out another form when you get there, and then wait in line for the vet inspection. If you have all your paperwork in order, you shouldn’t have any problems, but if there is any little thing missing, you may have a long wait ahead of you. This is why many people use a commercial carrier, and avoid most of the headaches.

One more piece of advice when you return through Canadian Customs, do not go through the semi-truck lane, they really don’t like that. It is for commercial goods carriers only.

So, if you think all of this is worth the effort, go ahead and sell your horse to the U. S., and best of luck to you!

Till next time, stay in the saddle, and never say whoa in a bad spot!

The post Let’s Go Ridin’ – for May. 14, 2009 appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

If you were to ask any horseman riding performance horses in a wide variety of disciplines, one thing he or she would probably agree on is the base of the arena; it must be good footing and good drainage. If the base isn’t there, it won’t really matter what you cover it with, it simply will not work.

Ground with good footing has to have give when the hoof lands on it, but must also keep the foot stable. Landing in hard ground sends the shock back up the horse’s leg. Sometimes finding the right combination can be tricky.

The soil in your arena must be considered also. Now depending on what discipline the arena will most often be used for will also help in knowing the kind of material you will need for good preparation of ground.

Sand in the pen gives more grip and yes even sand comes in different forms. Coarse grains are often used in outdoor pens and are less likely to blow in strong winds. The finer sand works well indoors. Angulated granules are better than round granules for both types of arenas because they make the footing more solid. The depth of the sand again depends on the discipline, but generally a depth of six to 10 inches will give your horse the proper cushion.

Materials like topsoil, wood chips, and rubber products, such as shredded tires, offer more of a cushion base and are popular for events such as jumping.

Check out what is available in your area and what materials or combinations would work best for your arena. Proper preparation of ground means safety for yourself and your horse, and less chance of being grounded.

Till next time, stay in the saddle, and never say whoa in a bad spot!

The post Let’s Go Ridin’ – for Apr. 16, 2009 appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

In all my years of being around horses, I had never seen a mare foal. They like to do it under cover of darkness most times, they like to be left alone, and in my experience, a mare seldom needs help from us humans. But a horse can fool ya, as we all know.

Well, we had a mare that we figured was getting fairly close. But by her breeding date, she was a little ways off from giving birth. The mares were still running with a few geldings in the paddock out front where the grass was good and there was lots of room for exercise.

One day about noon I happened to look out the window and wouldn’t ya know it, there was this mare with two feet sticking out of her. She was foaling in the middle of the day, right in front of everybody!

I was so excited I nearly turned inside out! But I didn’t go outside, deciding instead to just watch from the window so as not to disturb the course of nature. A few minutes passed and by golly, she was ready. She laid down and got up a few times, and then she stayed down and started to push. They were short, powerful contractions, and I could see progress with each one, so I figured everything was OK. Then she gave one final push and out came a beautiful baby. I was astonished at how little time it took, and with what seemed like minimal effort.

The mare lay there for a few minutes resting, and the baby did not immediately try to get to his feet. Then as I watched, I witnessed another amazing event, one that leaves you in awe of horses and their instincts. An old gelding ventured over to check things out, sniffing the new foal as if to be sure he was OK. A younger gelding decided he should see what all the fuss was about, and as he approached the baby, that old gelding ran him off! Then he began to circle the mare and foal, and proceeded to run at any horse that came near, and drive them away. He continued to circle the pair for a spell, keeping curious onlookers away, until the mother and baby were on their feet and bonding. Then he relaxed his vigil and went back to grazing, his sentinel duties done.

I was blown away by the whole experience. Not only had I been lucky enough to see a mare foal, but I had also witnessed an amazing display of guardianship on the part of that old gelding. Perhaps it happens all the time, I don’t know. As I said, our mares normally foal at night with no one around to watch. As far removed from the wild as these horses are, they still possess the natural instincts to protect their own. I felt very privileged indeed.

I have long believed that horses have a language all their own and they communicate to each other in amazing ways. That experience confirmed my beliefs. Horses are truly amazing animals that can teach you something every day, if you are fortunate enough to get the chance to watch and learn.

Till next time, stay in the saddle, and never say whoa in a bad spot!

The post Let’s Go Ridin’ – for Mar. 19, 2009 appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

The first step is to objectively analyze your mare for her breeding potential. Conformation, disposition, pedigree, age and reproductive soundness are all important factors in your evaluation. Once you have made the decision to breed her, the next step of course is to choose a sire for her baby.

Factors affecting your choice of sire could include assessing your target market, the discipline your horse is involved in, and proximity of the stud, to name a few. Are you looking to raise replacements for your broodmare band? Maybe you want to raise barrel horses, ranch horses or jumpers, the list goes on and on. With today’s technological advances, the stud you want to use could be as close as your phone.

Time was if you wanted to breed a mare and you didn’t own a stud, you would have to haul her to a stud farm for service. But with the advancement of artificial insemination and embryo transfer, world-class genetics are now more accessible than ever. Many breed associations are now allowing the use of this technology, and while embryo transfer may still be out of reach financially for a lot of folks, the use of A. I. is becoming quite common.

A. I. in horses involves the use of shipped semen. This means that you can book your mare for service to a stud in a neighbouring town, province, country or even continent, through the use of shipped semen. Cooled semen is generally shipped on the day you need to breed your mare and must be used within a matter of hours after collection, while the use of frozen semen gives you a wider window for breeding as it can be stored indefinitely.

The process of A. I.’ing your mare involves working closely with a vet or certified technician, to ensure the mare is bred at the optimum time. She must be palpated several times to determine where she is at in her cycle, and inseminated at the proper time. Palpation can also help to identify potential problems that could inhibit conception, such as inflammation or infection. Once bred, the mare can be ultrasounded as early as 14 days after breeding to determine whether or not she conceived.

Conception rates using A. I. run around 70 per cent, compared to live cover at 90 to 100 per cent. But the added advantages of keeping your mare at home for breeding, and not having to keep a stud around, make it attractive to many mare owners.

So if you want to breed your mare, my advice is do your homework. Talk to people with experience in this field – other breeders, your vet, etc. – for advice on proper nutrition and management of broodmares. Then, make an informed decision, and go for it.

Till next time, stay in the saddle, and never say whoa in a bad spot!

The post Let’s Go Ridin’ – for Feb. 12, 2009 appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

A favourite memory of mine as a kid growing up on the farm with horses was going to the bush with my dad on many a frosty day. Morning chores would be done, the team of horses fed and watered, then harnessed and hitched to the bobsleigh, ready for a day’s work. In those days, that involved cutting a load of rails to sell, or wood for the stove. A good saw, axe and “billy tin” seemed to be all that was required – and, of course, the family dog, Tex, who was always eager to go.

The journey to the bush would include making a trail across the wooded country and crossing the lake, which with frequent trips kept a good track open for the team. I will always remember the jingle-jangle of the chains on the tugs of the harness, and the crisp creaking sounds the bobsleigh made as it glided through the snow.

Upon arriving at the chosen spot, Dad would have us kids gathering bits of branches and bark to start a fire to warm up, and the billy tin was filled with snow several times to melt enough water for a pot of hot tea.

My dad was a good horseman and skilled bushman, and had a real knack for breaking horses to harness. There seemed to be a feeling of trust on both sides. He would draw the lines over the horses’ backs to the side he was working on, and may a time with a cluck he’d holler “A little bit, boys” and they would step ahead. One whoa meant stop. Gee and haw were verbal commands to turn right or left. They learned patience and didn’t seem to mind waiting. It really was a team effort.

As the load was cut down, it was loaded onto the sleigh and we made sure the stakes on the bunks were solid to take home a good-size load securely. Climbing up on top of the load, we all found our spots for the ride back. Upon returning home, horses were unhitched, unharnessed and cooled down, fed and watered and put in their bedded stalls for the night. All seemed content with a good day’s work done. Good times make great memories.

Till next time, stay in the saddle and never say whoa in a bad spot!

The post Let’s Go Ridin’ – for Jan. 15, 2009 appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

Christmases come and Christmases go

And some are more memorable than others

But the one I recall that tops ‘em all

Is the Christmas we fixed my mother.

The weather was warm and the moon was high

The stars were twinkling bright

Family gathered round, merriment did abound

On that beautiful Christmas Eve night.

So we hitched up the team and we all climbed on

For a sleigh ride in the snow

As we pulled away Ma was heard to say

“Wait for me, I wanna go!”

The younguns thought Grandma was too old to go

With her back in such a state

But Ma climbed on and hollered “drive on!”

Claimed she was leavin’ her health up to fate.

So off we went and all was well

Soon the lights of home were drawing near

Sleigh bells were ringin’, the kids were singin’

“Grandma Got Run Over by a Reindeer.”

No sooner had the words come out of their mouths

When the sleigh hit a steep incline

We was grabbin’ for air on a wing and a prayer

’Cause the whole thing was startin’ to slide.

What happened next was a sight to behold

The likes of which I’d never seen

A tangle of bales, legs and arms flailed

In slow-mo, like a bad dream.

I watched as Ma flew up and then back

Did a somersault in the air

With the greatest of ease like a flying trapeze

I admit she did it with flair.

She came to rest bottom down, boots up

On the crest of the new-fallen snow

Her eyes were wide as we rushed to her side

But her state we just didn’t know.

Ma got to her feet and shook herself off

And then she slowly started to smile

Then she laughed and she giggled and started to wiggle

She hadn’t moved like that in a while.

She jumped on the sleigh and shouted to all

“It’s the best Christmas present I ever got!”

With her health restored she needed doctors no more,

She just needed to get upsot!

The post The Christmas fix appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

Lice can reproduce all year but they tend to become a bigger problem during the winter. The entire life cycle of lice is spent on the animal. There are two types of lice that can attack a horse. Horse-biting lice are about one-tenth of an inch long, chestnut brown in colour with a yellow abdomen and dark crossbands. They are very flat with a broad, rounded head and slender legs. They have chewing mouthparts and feed on dry skin secretions from the skin and hair. The eggs are close to the horse’s skin and seem to be glued to the hair. It takes five to 10 days for the eggs to hatch. Nymphs begin feeding immediately, reaching maturity in three to four weeks.

The other critters are called horse-sucking lice and are approximately an eighth of an inch long and slate grey in colour. This type is the more common and more irritating type. They have a very broad abdomen with long, narrow heads. The eggs are stuck to the hair and hatch 11 to 20 days later. Nymphs begin to suck blood immediately and complete their development in two to four weeks.

Signs of an animal contacting lice include rubbing and scratching, scruffy skin and an unkempt hair coat. This is often first noticed around the head, neck, mane and tail. Patches of hair rubbed off are definite signs of lice infestation. Animals having this problem should be inspected on a routine basis and treated right away, as a heavy infestation can cause the animal to become anemic, requiring immediate treatment.

Insecticides in powder or spray form are available for the control and treatment of lice. As well, shampoos specially formulated for control of lice have proven effective. Lice can transfer from one animal to another when in close contact, and also from infected blankets, brushes and tack. When you treat your horse for lice, it’s with the same product to ensure that the problem is eradicated. A good feeding and grooming program is essential in the control of lice. Grooming does not remove or kill lice but definitely helps spot the problem before it gets out of hand.

Keep a close eye on your pony for any signs of infestations and treat any problems promptly so he will be healthy and happy all winter.

Till next time, stay in the saddle, and never say whoa in a bad spot!

The post Let’s Go Ridin’ – for Nov. 13, 2008 appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.