We saw combinations of evergreens in containers as well as specialty shrubs such as smoke bush and barberry. Of course exotic tropical trees and shrubs are very popular container plants, such as hibiscus, climbing roses, banana trees, bougainvillea, hydrangeas and oleander. I was interested in hearing how the gardeners wintered these plants.

Banana trees seem so immense and I would have thought impossible to store for the winter. However, one gardener simply chops the tops off the trees, digs the root balls out of the containers (the root ball is actually not that big), and stores them in the basement in cardboard boxes buried in peat moss.

Coniferous evergreen trees and shrubs are relatively easy to overwinter. The plants are simply popped out of their containers and heeled into the ground somewhere in the garden where they will be protected from cold winds and desiccating winter sunshine.

Some gardeners we met went to a lot of effort to overwinter some of the plants. One lady dug trenches and buried her potted hydrangeas and climbing roses. The trench was dug deep enough to accommodate both the container (or the root ball if the plant had been slipped out of its container) and the plant. It was lined with dry leaves and then the tree was placed in the trench, sometimes being covered with dry leaves or a burlap sheet before the trench was filled with soil.º This procedure was used for plants that were rated Zone 5 and above.

One method to overwinter borderline hardy plants successfully is to group them in a sheltered spot, surround them with a wire cage and fill the cage (completely cover the plants) with dry leaves or other mulch. Some sort of covering is necessary to keep the mulch dry so that it does not lose its insulating ability. The more mulch that is packed around the outside of the pot grouping, the better. Some plants, if they naturally go dormant for the winter, can be stored in a garage where the temperatures remain above freezing. Keeping them in the dark will lessen the chance that they will break dormancy too soon in the late winter.

Not everyone has the space — or the desire — to overwinter a tree or standard in the house. For those of us lucky enough to have an all-season sunroom, such plants can be kept alive for the winter and might actually put on a decent display for some of the time. A number of years ago I overwintered a hibiscus standard successfully indoors in front of a south window and it bloomed for most of the winter. I did have to be diligent about insect control as many tropical plants are prone to insect attack when moved indoors, where the air is dry.

When taking plants from the outdoor garden indoors, give them a good spraying with the garden hose and perhaps a preventive spray with insecticidal soap to reduce the threat of insects getting established on the plants.

It’s difficult to see plants succumb to killing frost in the fall if they can be saved and used in the garden again the following year. Try some of these ideas about how you can overwinter your prized plants and maybe you won’t have to buy new ones next spring.

The post Wintering trees and shrubs grown in containers appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

Trees and shrubs, as well as hardscaped features like trellises and arbours can serve as anchors — holding the landscape down. Anchors can also serve as transitions from one area to another, such as pyramidal trees or large shrubs planted at the corners of the house to allow the house to transition into the surrounding landscape. Considered the bones of a garden, anchors are the first features of a new landscape to be installed, around which all other elements are built.

They are also essential in planted areas such as flower borders. Whether the border is composed of annuals or perennials, or a mixture, if it is entirely made up of similar-looking plants that go on and on without interruption, the border will have a visual monotony.

How can anchors be added to a flower border to increase its visual appeal? If the border is viewed from one side, the backdrop of the border will serve as an anchor. Whether it is a building, fence, hedge, or a collection of shrubs or perennials, the backdrop will serve to anchor it in place because of its visual weight. A solid wooden fence, a hedge of cotoneaster, or a row of hollyhocks or Joe Pye weed would all serve this purpose.

Because the substance of the backdrop won’t be enough to completely anchor the border, focal points will need to be added here and there such as shrubs, large rocks, trellises, archways, large perennials, or even birdbaths and fountains. The goal is to add some geometric shapes such as globes, cones or mounds to draw the eye and add visual weight to the border. A big boulder has visual weight as does a large globe-shaped shrub such as a globe honeysuckle or a globe cedar. A deciduous shrub such as a lilac, can also be kept trimmed into a globe shape to produce such a focal point.

Cone shapes can be created by using suitably shaped shrubs and trees such as emerald cedars or any plant that has a base wider that its tip. Besides geometric shapes, other elements — plants with large leaves like ligularia “Othello” and plume poppy — will add more visual weight. Dark-coloured foliage also adds more weight, so plants with burgundy or bronze foliage, such as the darker ninebarks and sand cherry bushes will serve as anchors as well.

Sometimes a border can be anchored by having visually heavy plants located at each end — perhaps a pyramidal cedar or some other evergreen with significant substance. A couple of smaller focal points within the border will complete the effort to make the border varied and interesting.

Island beds also need to be anchored and because they are not set against a backdrop of any kind, these will have to be located within the bed itself. The anchor might be in the centre, but often it will contribute more visual interest if it is slightly offset, creating an asymmetrical effect. A tree or shrub, rock, piece of statuary, large container or a bench or trellis are good choices.

By adding visual weight and providing variation in height and texture, anchors of all kinds will prevent a landscape from being monotonous because it lacks structure and a sturdy framework around which the remaining elements of the landscape can be effectively built.

The post Using ‘anchors’ in the garden appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

That’s how much syrup Alan and Johanna McLauchlan produced back in 2004 when they tried tapping a few birch trees for the first time.

It would ultimately lead the couple, who lives about an hour’s drive north of The Pas, to found their own company and produce and sell one of the world’s rarest gourmet foods.

The couple today sells a premium birch syrup made at Rocky Lake Birchworks, made from sap tapped from 1,500 birch trees, processed in facilities on their property, and sold to more than 30 retailers across Ontario, and the three Prairie provinces.

The McLauchlans were guest speakers at Take the Leap, a Manitoba Agriculture rural business conference, describing their own leap into a post-retirement entrepreneurship. The event attracted about 150 participants from across rural and northern Manitoba including new and existing business owners.

“Had I known what I know now I’d have been getting into entrepreneurship sooner,” he said.

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Busy retirement

Al and Johanna were retired from their careers in the RCMP and municipal management respectively and living at their property on the shores of the pristine Rocky Lake when Al gave about 15 trees that first-year tap. That first tiny volume of syrup piqued their interest to try again the following spring. Over the next five seasons they added more trees and bought more processing equipment, finally founding Rocky Lake Birchworks Ltd. in 2009.

Today they produce and market their own brand of syrup, plus a line of specialty flavoured teas made from chaga, a type of mushroom birch trees produce, a medicinal salve made from cottonwood trees, wild rice and a natural sweetener also derived from trees around them.

The company gained international attention recently when they were featured in a film produced by The Pew Trust called “People of the Boreal.” In the film, and during their talk in Dauphin, the couple talks about the intimate relationship they’ve developed with the land around them and the importance of sustainably managing the resources of the boreal zone.

“We have a real close connection to the land,” Al said. “Without the boreal forest our company is non-existent.”

Being retirees and starting a company in later life definitely worked to their advantage, says Johanna. They’d had fulfilling careers, gained life experience and skill sets from them, plus they were financially secure.

The timing to start something new was just right, she said.

“We like to keep busy and we were looking for a project,” she said.

“Now we’re doing something that we really enjoy.”

Early preparation

In mid-November the McLauchlans are already gearing up for the intense few days in early spring they’ll spend tapping trees, hauling thousands of litres of sap, and boiling and bottling syrup at the on-site processing facilities they’ve established at Rocky Lake. The business now keeps not only themselves busy, but also their sons Andy and Peter.

The McLauchlans say they had lots of support as they pursued the business, crediting staff with the Food Development Centre at Portage la Prairie, Food and Beverage Manitoba, the World Trade Centre in Winnipeg, plus their own network for helping them navigate the complexities of starting the business, launching a brand and connecting to markets from their remote geographic location. They’ve developed an extensive website and made wide use of social media like YouTube and Facebook to tell their company’s story.

New entrepreneurs have many questions and plenty of doubts as they get started, a topic much discussed at the October 23 conference. The McLauchlans spoke frankly about some of their own during a panel discussion.

His biggest personal hurdle starting out was being willing to seek advice, Al said. He needed to stop worrying he’d attract too much attention too early to their business concept.

“To be honest, I just didn’t want anyone to steal our idea,” he told the Dauphin conference.

“Once I got over that, our journey really started.”

The post Northern business owners share startup story appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

Because evergreens are just that — EVER green — they behave differently from deciduous trees. Since they do not lose their leaves (needles) they continue to experience photosynthesis and also have a higher rate of transpiration (water loss) than do deciduous trees. We must do everything we can in the fall to ensure that this damaging water loss is not fatal to the trees.

Thorough watering of the soil around evergreens in late autumn, just before freeze-up, will enable the roots of the evergreen trees to take up water for as long as the soil isn’t completely frozen. The soil freezes gradually, so the lower levels will not be frozen for many weeks and during mild winters there may be some unfrozen soil around some of the deepest roots. An ample supply of water in the soil is vital to the winter survival of evergreen trees.

Tender evergreens that are not totally hardy in our region can be further protected by adding a heavy layer of mulch under the trees to reduce the depth of frost in the soil. Evergreens transpire moisture through their needles; this process is slowed dramatically in winter because of the waxy coating on these needles, the reduction in the size of the leaf openings used for transpiration, and because of the reduced rate of photosynthesis. However, all evergreens will lose some moisture through their leaves during the winter.

Besides deep watering and mulches, protection from winter winds and from direct winter sunshine will benefit evergreens. Wind increases the rate of transpiration and dries out the needles, while direct sunlight — even seemingly bleak winter sun — will heat up the needles and increase the rate of photosynthesis, which will increase the tree’s need for water. Screens can be erected in front of smaller evergreens to shelter them from wind and sun. Any tender evergreens should have been planted in sheltered spots where they do not get direct winter sun and are not exposed to harsh winter winds.

Besides tending to their water needs, evergreens should be protected from winter browsing by animals — deer in particular. Unobtrusive fencing made from stucco wire can be easily erected around individual trees. This wire is stiff and will stand up on its own so just a couple of posts hammered into the ground will hold it in place. If the idea of fencing is unappealing, products that repel deer are available that, when sprayed on the trees in late fall, will work all winter. If rabbits are a problem, protect the stems of trees by using guards around the base of the trunk. The guards should come up high enough on the trees to ensure that the rabbits cannot reach unprotected bark when standing on snowbanks. Fortunately rabbits find evergreens less appealing than other types of trees and shrubs.

Wind damage and damage from snow load can affect evergreens because they tend to accumulate more snow that leafless deciduous trees. Their needles provide more resistance to wind so damage from strong winds is more likely. Cedars and upright junipers can be tied so that individual stems do not bend down when snow accumulates on the trees. Using a soft but sturdy material to tie the trees into tight cones will enable them to withstand heavy snow loads with little ill effect. If you have any evergreens in pots, remove them from their containers and plant them in a location where they are sheltered from wind, protected from winter sun and get good snow cover. They can be planted into containers again in the spring.

Sometimes trees suffer mechanical injury from snow-removal equipment. Ensure that snow-removal persons are aware that they should not push snow into the trees because branches might be broken. Prevent people from brushing against the foliage of evergreens as the needles and branches are stiff and not pliable in the winter and are easily damaged. Keep pathways far enough away to avoid such damage. Giving evergreen trees and shrubs some attention in the late fall will mean they will come through the winter in fine shape.

The post Prepare evergreens for the winter appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

Two columns of bricks create a makeshift stove, over which giant rectangular pans sit atop a steel table-like structure. Barrels of scrap hardwood, collected throughout winter at our carpenter shop especially for this, stand nearby. As my sister Sonia adds wood, sparks spew from the roaring fire as whistles and crackles create a merry tune. Steam rises from the gently bubbling Manitoba maple sap, filling the air with a sweet aroma. While the sap is boiling, the water-like liquid changes into beautiful golden-brown syrup.

Growing up, the ‘Laura books’ were among my favourites and the maple-sugaring story from Little House in the Big Woods captured my imagination. Little did I know back then a family member would re-enact this treasured memory every year, using our native trees. Each time it brings back happy reading memories, as the last traces of winter disappear.

Weeks before the cooking begins, Sonia goes out and taps trees around our colony. Using spiles she’s made from PVC pipes to tap the trees, the sap drips into repurposed juice or vinegar jugs.

“I’ve tapped 100 trees this year, the most I’ve ever done,” she happily informed me. Less snow, coupled with an earlier-than-normal thaw made that possible, putting Sonia right in her element — enjoying nature and producing a nutritious treat, which she shares with family and friends.

Each year is different when it comes to collecting sap. When spring is nice and mild one week then much colder and wintery the next, it causes the sap flow to be much slower. Ideal conditions are created when nights are -5 C, and daytime temperatures are around +5 C. Maple sapping is a long process, and it takes about 40 gallons of sap to get one gallon of syrup. This year yields have been better for Sonia, she was able to get a gallon of syrup from 34 gallons of sap.

Sonia’s mode of transportation to tap trees and collect sap is usually a golf cart. Loaded with a drill, spiles, pails and jugs she makes her rounds twice a day. With many of the maple trees in wooded areas, getting to them can be an adventure when there’s lots of snow. One year she had to crawl over three- to four-foot drifts to get to the trees. This works well when the pails are empty, but gets more challenging when they’re full of sap, especially since you don’t want to lose any of the sweet goodness.

During wet springs, dodging puddles and mud makes for a different set of challenges. But Sonia takes everything in stride, even if it means plodding through thigh-high snow or trudging through ankle-deep mud, balancing two pails of sap. Of six sisters in our family, she’s the one who embraces the outdoors the most, savouring each season as it comes and enjoying whatever it brings.

Sometimes she takes our five-year-old nephew Jakobi to help collect sap. He loves being outdoors as much as Sonia, and feels very important taking the jugs from the tree and emptying the sap into a pail. However, he tends to get distracted by the puddles that call him for some splash time. One day there were new baby chicks in the barn.

Driving past the barn he asked Sonia, “While you collect sap, I will stay with the baby chicks. Will that work?”

“How about we both collect sap first,” Sonia responded. “Then we’ll visit the chicks later?”

Sonia also makes maple butter, which I enjoy even more than the syrup. A rich layer of this natural goodness spread on fresh homemade bread makes for a delicious and nutritious snack. I close my eyes, savour this seasonal morsel, and reminisce.

I’m a little girl again, licking maple sugar snow candy with Laura.

“Grandma stood by the brass kettle and with a big wooden spoon she poured hot syrup on each plate of snow. It cooled into a soft candy, and as fast as it cooled they ate it. They could eat all they wanted, for maple sugar never hurt anybody.”

Linda Maendel lives, works and writes at Elm River Colony, and is author of Hutterite Diaries: Wisdom From My Prairie Community

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We grew up knowing the value of a tree. As kids, we heard more than once how every tree on the section of land my parents farmed had been planted and then individually watered by human hands. We lived in a part of the province where the pioneers joked you could say goodbye to someone in the morning and see their campfire on the horizon that night.

By the late 1950s, the maturing farmyard bluff fed out to several miles of young shelterbelts separating the fields. They anchored the soil, they tamed the wind, and they provided a haven for birds, wildlife and beneficial insects. Simply by being there, they made that flat-as-a-pancake prairie landscape seem warmer and more inviting.

Trees still exist out here on the prairie, surrounding remaining farmyards like little enclaves. But shelterbelts and free-standing tree bluffs are rapidly becoming a thing of the past as they are razed in the insatiable drive for more cropland.

Smouldering piles of bulldozed trees are a common sight in rural Manitoba these days. No one seems to know how quickly the trees are disappearing. It’s one of those trends the governments of today don’t really want to quantify.

In that context, it’s no surprise that the federal government is washing its hands of the former PFRA shelterbelt nursery at Indian Head. It’s doing it in such a way that it appears the asset will be destroyed rather than transferred as a viable entity into private hands.

A business plan submitted by a coalition of farm groups hoping to take over the 112-year-old agroforestry centre was rejected after it sought $1.6 million in bridge financing. Given the government’s spending habits in other areas, it can’t be about the money.

This is a political decision, a tacit admission that the decision makers in our federal Agricultural Department see no public value from trees on the agricultural landscape.

On one hand, you can see government’s point. Why subsidize, even in a small way, the cost of trees for one generation only to have the next generation come along and knock them over?

This open season on trees isn’t limited to agricultural areas of the Prairies.

Reuters reports that deforestation in the Amazon increased by nearly a third over the past year, as illegal logging cleared 5,842 square km — an area bigger than the size of Prince Edward Island.

Although technically illegal, governments seem helpless, perhaps wilfully so, to stop it.

Some argue the world’s remaining undeveloped lands would be protected by introducing more technology to boost yields from existing farmland and by ensuring farmers are adequately paid for what they currently produce. We have no argument with either, provided the technologies used don’t destroy our soil and water.

But the reality is, farmers get paid to produce, whether prices are high or whether they are low. Our hunch is the destruction of shelterbelts and forested areas on the Prairies accelerated when prices were high, partly because farmers had more money to invest in tree clearing.

The role of trees in our ecosystem is well understood. But we are only beginning to understand how they might influence our weather.

New research published by Princeton University researchers suggests that total deforestation of the Amazon may significantly reduce rain and snowfall in the western United States, resulting in water and food shortages, and a greater risk of forest fires.

“The big point is that Amazon deforestation will not only affect the Amazon — it will not be contained. It will hit the atmosphere and the atmosphere will carry those responses,” wrote David Medvigy, an assistant professor of geosciences at Princeton. “By this study, deforestation of the Amazon could have serious consequences for the food supply of the United States.”

Of course, shelterbelts and mixed prairie bluffs aren’t the Amazon rainforest. But neither are they benign fixtures in our environment.

Government policy both intentionally and indirectly plays a key role in shaping a society’s values. In the past, particularly after the Dirty ’30s, adding trees to the landscape was considered development. These days, development means taking them out and pushing more land into production.

You have to wonder what historians will say about this era in world agriculture, and whether future generations will regret our disregard for the value of trees.

The post The value of trees appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

Usually a gardener will purchase a standard that has already been shaped and trained to form. The task then will be to keep the plant growing in that particular shape — usually a single trunk — although many standards are now appearing on the market with plaited trunks, that is, with several trunks braided together to form one larger trunk.

Often the top of the standard is clipped into a ball shape unless the intent is to have a weeping standard, in which case the branches are trained to cascade down from the top graft. Usually weeping forms are created from shrubs and trees which already have a weeping growth habit, but some training may be required.

Generally, plants that are used to create standards have very attractive foliage and many also produce blooms. Examples are lilac, cherry, hibiscus and roses. All of these shrubs and trees have attractive foliage, which can stand alone as an accent but they also produce beautiful blooms, which make the appearance of the standard spectacular when it is flowering. The plants chosen must also be able to tolerate extensive pruning and clipping because to maintain the standards’ shape, they will have to be clipped repeatedly during the growing season.

Although some standards are winter hardy, such as Miss Kim and dwarf Korean lilac, also the weeping, globe, and pygmy caraganas, as well as some cherry and willow, others are not cold tolerant and will have to be wintered indoors. Hibiscus comes to mind, and rose standards rarely can survive our winters outdoors. A hibiscus standard will need to be wintered in a sunroom or solarium where it will continue to grow. A rose standard can be encouraged into dormancy and be wintered in a cool, dark place like a heated garage where the winter temperature is kept just above the freezing point.

Some ordinary plants also can be trained into standards, such as a geranium. It too would have to be wintered indoors. Any plant that will grow on a single stem or trunk and form a ball-shaped clump of foliage atop the stem can be used.

What is the attraction of a standard? How can it be used in the landscape? Generally, a standard is used as a focal point, and to appreciate the unique form and beauty it must have plenty of space around it — not jammed into a mixed border among a myriad of other plants. I have seen a standard used effectively to anchor a flower bed by being placed at one end, and it fits well in a xeriscape that is mulched with rock or gravel. I have even seen a weeping caragana standard used in a foundation planting — but again, with plenty of space around it.

A standard is not inexpensive or low maintenance, but well worth the cost and effort if you want to add something quite unique to your landscape.

The post Nothing standard about a standard appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

If these trees overhang a house, driveway or power lines, large limbs or treetops broken by ice can cause major damage and expense.

If trees suffer major damage, two questions should be addressed. The first is: “Does the tree’s condition warrant efforts to save it, or should it be removed?”

Major tree repair can be expensive and should only be attempted if a major portion of the tree is still intact and its attractiveness and value to the property can be maintained. If the whole side or top is gone, it may not be worth spending time and money to salvage it. While no one wants to remove a large, mature tree, it may be prudent to replace it with a young tree possessing desirable qualities.

The second quest ion is: “Can you handle the repair yourself or should you seek professional help?” Small limbs can be removed easily with pruning shears or a pole-lopper provided they are within your reach. Removing large hanging limbs should be left to professional tree services. Look for them under Tree Service in the Yellow Pages. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen’s compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job.

WHAT DAMAGE IS REPAIRABLE?

Broken limbs should be removed. For broken tops, remove the snags to the next major interior branch. Trees with split trunks or major limb forks may possibly be salvaged if the split is not too extensive. Repairing this type of damage will involve a cable and brace technique that should be left to a professional tree service.

Small to medium-size trees may become uprooted. It may be possible to straighten these trees and brace them with guy wires if one-half to onethird of the tree’s original root system is still in the soil and the remaining exposed roots are relatively compact and undisturbed.

Corrective pruning to help improve the shape of damaged trees is best done now. The tree will respond quickly this spring if it has not been severely damaged. Take care not to remove more than onethird of original branches. This will severely retard the tree’s growth and may damage it beyond recovery.

You may want to fertilize damaged trees this spr ing with a good-quality tree fertilizer. Check with a local nursery or garden centre for recommended rates.

Additional information about avoiding and repairing ice damage to trees and shrubs can be found at the University of Illinois Extension Service website www.urbanext. illinois.edu/icedamage.

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Ifthewholesideortopisgone,itmaynotbe worthspendingtimeandmoneytosalvageit.

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Takecarenotto removemorethan one-thirdoforiginal branches.Thiswill severelyretard thetree’sgrowth andmaydamageit beyondrecovery.

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The fig tree is just that – a tree – and it is native to the tropical and semi-tropical regions of the world where it grows in jungle conditions. Therefore, it likes high humidity and a constant source of water. It is also adverse to changing temperatures and will often not perform well as a potted houseplant if it is placed near a door or vent where it is exposed to drafts.

The lush green foliage (there are variegated varieties) of the fig tree is its main attraction and this foliage must be kept clean. Although it is a tedious job, wiping the leaves individually with a damp cloth will remove dust, but putting the pot into the shower will accomplish the same thing although that is a rather messy approach. The plant should be watered when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry, which will occur more often during the active growing season than during the winter when growth slows dramatically. Fertilizer should be used only when the plant is in active growth.

Ficus trees have vigorous root growth and will need to be repotted every two years. Pot up to a larger pot which is at least five cm in diameter larger than the existing pot, and use a porous, peat-based soilless mix and provide good drainage. Fig trees like high humidity and so during the winter, at least, use of a pebble tray will benefit the plant. Just ensure that the pebbles hold the bottom of the pot above the water so that good drainage still occurs.

When purchasing a fig tree, look for a sturdy trunk with no signs of damage, rich green foliage which is free from damage and exhibits no signs of the presence of insects, and moist soil which indicates the plant has not been allowed to dry out. One of the first signs of stress of a ficus tree is the dropping of leaves. The plants are somewhat temperamental, particularly when conditions or location changes, and the plant may react by dropping up to a quarter of its leaves.

To minimize leaf drop of a newly acquired tree, give it good light, water carefully, make sure it doesn’t get chilled, and try to provide high humidity by misting the plant for the first couple of weeks. If the leaves yellow before they drop, this is a sign that the plant has been overwatered and you may have to adjust the watering regimen. A ficus tree will need to be pruned to keep it from outgrowing its location; this is best done in the spring when new growth is beginning.

Besides a single specimen tree, ficus trees lend themselves to being used in a couple of different way. They are ideal candidates for bonsai, also, when fig trees are small their trunks are very pliable and sometimes three or four tree trunks are braided and the trees are planted in a clump as one tree so the “trunk” then is composed of the several individual trunks braided together. As the trees grow, further braiding is required. These trees will need to be pruned judiciously to make them conform to the shape desired.

– Albert Parsons writes from Minnedosa, Manitoba

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Iftheleavesyellow beforetheydrop,this isasignthattheplant hasbeenoverwatered.

The post Ficus — A Tree For The Indoors appeared first on Manitoba Co-operator.

Leaves stayed green far longer than usual this year and some scientists suggest trees may go into winter in a weakened state as a result.

It was common last week to see trees still with green leaves, which would normally have turned yellow and fallen to the ground long ago.

The leaves were probably dead, killed by frost but retaining their green colour, just as vegetables do when you put them in the freezer.

FAMINE

Because leaves froze early, the trees didn’t have a chance to take back their nutrients. This left them in “a famine state” going into winter, according to Janice Cooke, a University of Alberta tree biologist.

“This is the dire consequence of having these green leaves on the trees that are now fading to brown. The nutrients that were tied up in those leaves, that the tree invested in those leaves, are now lost to the tree,” Cooke was recently quoted as saying in a newspaper article.

This will hurt trees in spring because they were counting on those nutrients for growth, she added.

Manitoba industry officials agreed 2009 was highly unusual for trees. Many were late to leaf out because of the cold spring. Some ash trees weren’t fully in leaf until July. Trees generally have been slow to shut down for the winter.

But the late presence of greenery isn’t necessarily bad news for a tree’s health, said Ken Fosty, a Manitoba Forestry Association extension officer.

ENERGY CONVERTERS

The function of a leaf is to capture sunlight and convert it into energy for the tree. But leaves don’t store energy, said Fosty, who is also a certified arborist.

“I don’t think it’s going to have a major effect because the leaves had already done their job as far as making energy for the tree,” he said.

“It happened so late in the year that, in my opinion, the leaves had already done their function and the vast majority of the energy had already been converted and sent into the tree.”

Fosty said his main concern is that leaves remaining on trees create a mass for snow or freezing rain to settle. This could result in a lot of broken branches. The late season is “more of a physical concern than a biological concern” for trees, he said.

Martha Barwinsky, Winnipeg’s city forester, said when leaves drop off in autumn, the tissue at the base of the leaf (called the abscission layer) normally seals and closes up. That hasn’t happened this year, setting the stage for possible twig die-back in spring.

“The tissue hasn’t hardened off properly for the winter, so basically the trees really haven’t shut down in the normal way that they would,” said Barwinsky.

But Fosty said as soon as a leaf is formed, a new bud forms behind it. Even if leaves blow away or break off, buds are already there waiting for spring.

Shane Tornblom, who manages the Manitoba Agro-Woodlot Program, said comparisons between Manitoba and Alberta aren’t all that valid this year because Alberta experienced drought, which gave leaves less potential for photosynthesis. Then came an early frost, which Manitoba avoided.

“I think the circumstances between Alberta and Manitoba are fairly significantly different,” Tornblom said.

The good news is that trees in much of Manitoba put on “a phenomenal amount of growth” this summer because of abundant rainfall, said Barwinsky.

Too much, in fact, because excess water in the soil can prevent tree roots from getting enough oxygen, resulting in root die-back, she said.

But trees are hardy, long-term perennials with complicated defence systems enabling them to withstand occasional stresses, said Fosty.

“Trees have been here longer than we have so, I think they’re good to go.” ron@fbcpublishing.com

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